Historical Culinary Recipe Reconstruction Assignment


Historical Culinary Recipe:

Pour Fair Gellée de Coings d'une Souueraine Beaute, Bonte, Saueur, & Excellence, Propre pour Presenter Deuant un Roy, & Qui se Garde Bonne Longuement
To Make Quince Jelly of Exceptional Beauty, Goodness, Flavor, & Excellence, Proper to Present before a King, & Which Keeps a Long Time.
From Michel de Nostredame, Excellent et moult utile opuscule à touts nécessaire qui désirent avoir cognoissance de plusieurs exquises recettes (Lyon, 1552; recipe from 1555): Take whatever quince you wish, above all they should be very ripe & yellow, & quarter them, without peeling them (those who trim them, or peel them do not understand what they are doing: for the peel increases their perfume) & cut each quince into five or six pieces: and remove the seeds, because they will jell well without them: & while you cut them, put them in a bowl full of water, because if they are chopped or cut hurriedly, without being soaked in water, they will turn black: & when they are chopped, boil them in a large quantity of water, until they are thoroughly cooked, almost crumbling: & then when they are well done, strain this water through a fresh cloth, which should be thick, & extract as much of this decoction as possible by squeezing hard: & then measure it: & if there are six pounds, you take a pound and a half of Madeira sugar, and stir it into the decoction, & boil it over what you judge to be a medium heat, so that toward the end it will reduce a great deal: & then lower the heat so it does not scorch at the sides, which would give bad color to the jelly: & then when it is nearly cooked, to recognize when it is perfectly cooked, you take a little with a spatula, or a silver spoon, & put it onto a dish: & if you see when it is cold that the drop holds quite round without spreading, the jelly is done, & take it from the fire: & wait until the foam on top subsides: & when still hot you put it in boxes of wood, or glass: & if you want to write something, or shape the bottom of the box, you can do it, because it can easily be seen: for the color will be transparent, resembling an oriental ruby, of similar excellent color, & flavor even greater, this jelly can be given to invalids, and to the healthy.

Preliminary Questions:
1. How should we interpret/ gauge “thickness” re: cloth specifications? High heat low heat? Fresh cloth as in clean or freshly woven? Does thick refer to one thick cloth or layers of thinner fabric?
2. Madeira sugar – can we interpret this as a (burnt sugar) syrup or molasses?
a. One batch with sugar; one batch with sugar syrup
b. Is Madeira sugar a reference to sugar from a particular place? Of a particular texture? Consistency? Color?


Raw materials needed:
Quinces (sourced from Upper West Side Fairway)
Sugar (we are using brown sugar to approximate “Madeira sugar”)


Utensils needed:
-one large wooden bowl (to soak quinces in water)

Table of Contents

Historical Culinary Recipe Reconstruction Assignment
-one digital scale
-one small bowl to hold sugar on scale
-one large pot to boil quinces
-one glass container
-one silver spoon
-two cutting boards (one for each of us)
-two large knives (one for each of us; same kind/ company) -- had started with serrated knives which did not work well
-white cloth
-oven mitts (2 pairs) to squeeze in strainin

Name:
Kathryn Kremnitzer, Siddhartha Shah
Date and Time:
2015.09.16
Location:
217 Haven Avenue, Apartment 1G New York, NY USA
Subject:
TRIAL 1


Environmental notes: Morning, kitchen is well lit (natural light); small fan; open window; slightly warm room temperature
3 quinces (from California) total weight: 2lbs and 7/8 oz.; weighed in wooden bowl


Note that quinces are not as ripe as recipe calls for - they are almost totally green rather than “very ripe & yellow” as suggested.
Estimating to use between .5 and .75 pounds of sugar based on recipe measurement of 6lbs of quince to 1.5 lbs of sugar. We have decided to use brown sugar (Domino brand). The final weight of brown sugar to be used: 11 ¾ ounces of brown sugar.
Filling wooden bowl with cold water in which cut quinces will soak – recipe does not specify water temperature for soaking


Halved each quince before cutting each half into 5 or six pieces (widthwise). Careful not to “trim” the quinces but with our fingers removed seeds, the area around which left an oily residue on our fingers.
Texture of quinces after cutting and quartering and removing of seeds is comparable to eggplant re: spongy but hard, not heavy but seemingly dense, however not absorbent; slight browning near cut edges and areas in which seeds were removed; some yellowing similar to an apple


Added cut quinces to wooden bowl with water. Disposed of seeds and discarded material. Aroma of soaking quinces is like apple but more floral while uncut unsoaked quinces were less aromatic (smelled like unripe, young fruit). Removed black bits (of flower?) naturally loosening from fruit and floating to top. (10:53AM) After about ten minutes of soaking in the uncovered wooden bowl, the quinces are increasingly fragrant and seem to be absorbing water – they are more supple to the touch. We are periodically fondling the quinces to get them in the water (as they had been floating) before sinking a bit by 10:54AM. Removed cut quinces from soaking bath into separate bowl to transfer fruit to boiling water – note moments when quinces were out of water to be transferred to pot. The quinces’s soaking water, photographed after their removal, is cloudier than regular water.
Boiling cut quinces in stainless steel pot that is an eight quart vessel the bottom of which has been stained through cooking Indian food with turmeric in it – color of pot is slightly yellowish – 4.5 quarts of water to accommodate ambiguity of “large quantity of water”; covered pot with boiling water to boil faster
Added quinces to pot of boiling water at 11:04AM. Had intended to weigh the soaked cut quinces but forgot. Stirring mixture periodically with wooden spoon. All cut quinces look uniformly yellow – difficult to distinguish between peel and flesh for some; one of the pieces of quince still with seed had a seed that had swelled to the size of an apple seed. Aroma at 11:14AM is less like turmeric, smells slightly savory – somewhere between cooking applesauce and fresh tomatoes. Quinces appear to be getting smaller at 11:16AM and softening at 11:18AM such that impression even tear is made with gentle prodding of wooden spoon. At 11:48AM, the quinces are slightly yellower, potato-like in consistency, no evidence of pink color we anticipated with regard to supposed ruby-like color of final product. At 11:58AM the quince still appear yellow, peel and flesh are virtually indistinguishable, although there is evidence of some reddening of the fruit. At 12:13PM the fruit is pinker, still holding its shape, and quite soft such that we can cut through them with the wooden spoon; the water has significantly reduced in amount. At 12:31PM, the fruit is softer in texture (felt with wooden spoon) and more uniformly peach colored. Turned off heat at 12:36PM; pot stain seemingly absorbed by mixture (no longer evident in pot).
Straining boiled quince in what we deem to be “fresh” as in clean relatively thick white cloth. Squeezing above the fruit (wearing oven mitts) into a colander letting liquid drain. Draining liquid is sweet smelling, peachy in color. Left “flower” elements in fruit.
Upon inspection after removing quinces, the soaking water had slight fragrance of quince – water feels silky, almost thinner than water, with a matte finish; cloth seems to be of adequate thickness.
Weighing fruit in a small bowl (out of cloth) to get a sense of change if any. Fruit smells like sweet potatoes, no evidence of turmeric, still fragrant but more savory. Weighs 1lb 6.5 ounces.
Using same pot to reduce mixture with sugar – scrubbed pot clean with soap and water between boiling and reduction


Putting stove on medium heat (medium heat on this gas stove tends to be quite high, on “2” of “10”, we are judging that to be medium heat)
Put boiled quinces into pot, slowly stirring in brown sugar at 12:48PM. The tiniest bit of brown sugar has drastically changed the fragrance – we know we have too much brown sugar – now a very strong brown sugar smell, smells complementary to quinces. Guessing that final results will be brown in color. Mixture looks pecan-pie brown in color smells like molasses. Choosing not to stir the mixture because the recipe does not call for stirring at this stage in the reduction. The mixture is bubbling at 12:56PM. Still resisting the urge to stir despite slight stirring with wooden spoon. Guessing that a brown sugar syrup (brown sugar and water) will achieve a more uniform texture to combat the present clumpiness of mixture. Estimating that we are using about 100-200 more grams of sugar than necessary. The smell is overwhelmingly of brown sugar and the mixture is steadily bubbling, feels like it’s sticking – making the executive decision to stir occasionally. Mixture is shiny at 1:13PM, smells like prunes – very intoxicating, moves through nose onto tongue – desirous to eat – fragrance is seductive, also want to taste it, luscious, savory sweet – not saccharine, syrupy, not tight crisp sweet, seems like a nice fall/winter dish even if eaten cold based on smell and color which is quite brown. Natural impulse at 1:22PM to add water perhaps because if we put less sugar, waters of fruit would have mixed more with sugar, is presently chunky/ lumpy. Mixture is sticking a bit at 1:24PM, resumed stirring, want to reduce heat because mixture is sticking but would not call mixture greatly reduced – perhaps because there is too much sugar compared to the amount of fruit. When picked up with spoon to test consistency we found the mixture to be sticky, thick, weighty, and caramelized in both smell and color. At 1:29PM, the mixture has become quite fibrous, very stringy, clumpy in parts, can see the peel is separating from the flesh such that it is fully detachable, plastic-like, and sticky. Tasted mixture at 1:32PM – tastes sugary, could see how it may have been medicinal for the throat like a lozenge. Reducing heat at 1:32PM to as low as the stove goes (which is still higher than most burners). Mixture still looks like pecan pie but with pieces of peachy colored quince – looks like pie filling which is of note in that there are many recipes for quince pie. Quince pieces have reduced in size.
PAUSING EXPERIMENT AT 1:38PM, will resume in the evening
We are leaving the mixture in the pot off heat with a cover.
RESUMING EXPERIMENT AT 8:15pm
The aroma has really strengthened over the past hours. There is almost no distinction between this smell and that of a box of prunes. It is still very thick and fibrous. The mixture is very dense and it is hard to imagine that this mixture could ever become transparent. It looks nothing like a ruby and I would not describe the color as excellent.


At 8:55PM, after 40 minutes of cooking over low heat (“lo” setting on stove...lowest possible setting), there is little apparent change in the quince “jelly.” Some of the chunkier bits are gone due to all the stirring I keep doing to keep it from sticking to the pan and burning. It’s possible the color has gotten a bit darker. It is the consistency of a thick paste.


At 8:58PM the mixture is sticking heavily to the pot so removing from heat and placing in a glass container. Container to be covered with red plastic lid so bugs aren’t attracted to it. Will not be refrigerated as recipe suggests that it keeps well.



Name:
Kathryn Kremnitzer, Siddhartha Shah
Date and Time:
2015.09.17
Location:
217 Haven Avenue, Apartment 1G New York, NY, USA
Subject:
TRIAL 2


Siddhartha’s curiosity about the term “Madeira sugar” led to research on specification of “Madeira.” Found that madeira sugar could refer to a syrup or honey (see: __http://www.madeiraislandsouvenirs.com/en/product/madeira-sugarcane-syrup-1100g/__ and __https://www.lojamadeirense.com/gb/honey/442-sugar-cane-syrup-bio-ribeiro-seco-vd450g.html__). Our first attempt left our final concoction quite lumpy and far from transparent. In that process, we wondered if the granular consistency of the brown sugar we were using might make it more difficult to end up with a transparent finished product. The thought then crossed Siddhartha’s mind to turn the brown sugar into a syrup--more like some of the modern-day “Madeira sugar” products available that seem quite identified with the area (like Madeira wine). We found research suggesting that in the sixteenth century, 10% of Madeira’s inhabitants were slaves operating the sugar industry. It would also be possible to turn madeira into a syrup, Siddhartha thought, by reducing the wine or adding sugar--this would certainly add to the redness and ruby-like quality of the color. Still unsure however if ‘Madeira’ (the wine) was called the same thing at the time of the recipe.


For the second attempt, we will turn the dark brown sugar into a sugar syrup to replicate the sugar syrup sold in Madeira today.


We will try to make a syrup using a 2 : 1 ratio, sugar : water, based on previous cooking experience.


Environmental notes: Morning, kitchen is well lit (natural light); small fan; open window; slightly warm room temperature


Using the remainder of the Domino brand “dark brown sugar” from yesterday and supplementing with Krasdale brand “dark brown sugar” to attempt sugar syrup at 7:07AM. The color and consistency of Krasdale brown sugar is completely indistinguishable from Domino brown sugar. Approximately half of the 1.5 cups of sugar used is Domino (0.75 cups) and half is Krasdale (0.75 cups). In Trial 1, we mistakenly weighed the quince before boiling as opposed to after, as the recipe calls for, to calculate necessary amount of sugar. Based on our miscalculation in Trial 1, we are assuming that this amount (1.5 cups of sugar) will be more than enough. If the amount falls short, we should be able to make more syrup before adding it to the boiled quince later this afternoon when we reconvene. Sugar weighs 6 lbs ¼ oz. Begin by trying to melt (slowly/gently over medium heat) the brown sugar while water is boiling separately to add later. At 7:27AM, doubting whether this process will work -- sugar is not melting down yet as we had hoped but also not burning. At 7:31AM, adding a bit of water which seems to help. At 7:33AM, quickly added (approximately .75 cups) of water.


Initial weight of three (still quite green but most ripe i.e. yellow looking) raw quinces: 1 lb 6 ¼ oz


Halved three quinces, cut each half into five-six pieces (removed seeds and “flower”), and soaking in water at 12:36PM; fondling the pieces and removing tough bits (around the core mostly) that are easy to remove since our first attempt was nowhere near transparent and very chunky; same slimy residue/ silky quality from core parts.


Begin boiling 2 quarts of water (we are experimenting with less water) in same pot as yesterday (with little to no tumeric evident). Put chopped quince in boiling water at 12:48PM. Smell in boiling water lacks tomato masala-like smell of yesterday. Notice presence of foam at 1:03PM. Quinces are starting to crumble at 1:35PM. Mixture is less pink today than yesterday which is perhaps good because the sugar will make it less brown and more red?


When straining boiled quinces, notice that liquid is less pink and more yellow.


Started heating syrup (which had solidified because it was made in the morning) at low heat at 1:35PM to get it thin, watery, and transparent.
Weighing boiled quinces before adding them to sugar over low heat - weight after boiling: 1lb 13 ⅝ oz. Need .5 lb of the syrup (6 lbs quince : 1.5 lbs sugar=1.84 lbs quince : X lbs sugar)
Had to make more sugar syrup - original batch was 5 ⅛ oz - used 8 oz of sugar total.


Note that sugar syrup is brown and boiled quinces are yellow/orange - doubt that we will achieve a ruby colored jelly without the use of a coloring agent such as wine - guessing that yesterday’s batch more pink because we had selected the most yellow quince.


Stirring in sugar syrup to large pot with boiled quince over what we judge to be a medium heat (“3” of “10”) at 1:46PM. The syrup sugar agent is seemingly more successful from the outset. The aroma is far less pruney and much more quincey - you can see how the brown sugar and the fruit will complement each other; smells like sugar is bringing out the fruit, very fragrant. At 2:06PM smells like autumnal applesauce; congealing to be more puree-like but also fibrous. At 2:13PM, quinces are more golden in color, very fragrant. At 2:21PM reducing a bit; not sticking to pot. Estimating finish time around 2:45PM. At 2:41PM reducing to lowest heat setting (some of the fibrous bits started sticking). At 2:57PM more puree-like, not transparent - more puree than compote. At 3:14PM if we were to write something on the bottom of the container, it would be invisible, unlike transparency advertised in recipe.


Thinking we need to boil quints with less water at a lower temperature for longer to see if they turn more pink.


Katie leaves apartment at 3:18PM


Siddhartha takes mixture off heat at 3:40PM because not much is happening and it is starting to stick to the pot. Putting in glass box and covering.

MAJOR CHANGES IN TRIAL 2:
  1. Measured quinces post boiling to determine amount of sugar needed
  2. Cooked sugar to a syrup before use



Name:
Kathryn Kremnitzer, Siddhartha Shah
Date and Time:
2015.09.19
Location:
217 Haven Avenue, Apartment 1G New York, NY USA
Subject:
TRIAL 3


Environmental notes: Evening, kitchen is artificially well lit; small fan; open window; slightly warm room temperature


Siddhartha: I am about to make a 3rd attempt at the recipe with a few modifications based on our experience the previous two times to see if the results change. The first significant change is that I plan to adjust the heat, having discussed with my partner the potential differences between “high heat” in the 16th century and “high heat” today. As we are working with a gas burner that sends a constant stream of heat rather than burning wood, coal, or manure, I intend to cook the quinces over medium/medium-high heat to see if there is any difference in color. The second significant change is that I am going to interpret “madeira sugar” as a syrup composed of a sweet red wine, as no attempt thus far has yielded a finished product that is anywhere near the color of a ruby. In lieu of madeira, I will use port which is another sweet wine from Portugal. The recipe seems to emphasize the color of the quince jelly over its flavor. We have a rather firm understanding of the flavor of quince and quince jelly from our previous two experiments. In this third attempt, I will try to get closer to the color described in the original recipe.


I am using a cast iron vessel on this 3rd attempt. I have not yet done research on the kinds of metals used in pots and pans in the 16th century, but I am assuming they were not using stainless steel. Given that cast iron holds heat well, this should be an interesting attempt--to set the flame at “medium” heat and interpret that as “high heat” in the 1555. Note that the cast iron vessel I am using has been previously used as a dutch oven for baking. My friend who owns it suggests thoroughly scrubbing it to remove any oil residue.


Weight of three raw quinces: 2 lbs ⅞ oz.


The quinces we are using are quite green, not as ripe as they should be and the ones we will use tomorrow are even more green. Smells like green apples but quite faint.


For “Madeira syrup,” I am using 2 cups port and will add ¾ cups sugar.


8:13PM: Water in cast iron pot is boiling, reducing it to medium (4) and adding quince
8:17PM: Port/brown sugar mixture is on burner at high heat (“hi”)
8:28PM: Syrup at rapid boil and brought to “lo” to simmer.
8:58PM: Guessing the the wine mix is at about half what it was to start; removing from heat.
9:02PM: Port/sugar mixture weight is 11 ¼ oz.
9:06PM: Color of quince is slightly changing toward the pink color we saw in Trial 1
9:35PM: A search of “decoction” on the internet says that it is the liquid resulting from a substance through heating. I am, in this radical shift, going to toss the fruit and only use the liquid collected after straining to proceed.
9:46PM: The decoction is set at 3 on the burner--2 lbs of decoction to ½ lb of port/sugar mixture.
10:15PM: We have reduced the heat to “lo” after port/sugar mixture has reduced by approximately one inch in the pot.
10:27PM: Put a drop of mixture on a plate and in fridge to speed cooling to test if done
10:40PM: Drop did not hold shape, have just tried again.
10:54PM: Sticking. Taking mixture off heat and transferring into glass container. Left covered, unrefrigerated at room temperature


MAJOR CHANGES IN TRIAL 3:
  1. Boiled quinces in cast iron pot
  2. Used water in which quinces were boiled (decoction) as opposed to quinces themselves (concoction)
  3. Used port/sugar reduction to approximate “Madeira sugar”


Date: Sunday, September 20, 2015


9:03AM: The jelly did not set. My initial thought is to adjust our final attempt in three ways:
  1. To boil the quinces in less water to start, to have a higher concentration of pectin to help facilitate the jelly-ing
  2. To reduce the amount of wine and increase the amount of sugar in our attempt to recreate a “madeira sugar”/syrup
  3. to cook the sugar/decoction mixture down for longer


In general, the intention is to reduce the amount of liquid and increase the amount of binding agents (pectin and sugar?)



Name:
Kathryn Kremnitzer, Siddhartha Shah
Date and Time:
2015.09.20
Location:
217 Haven Avenue, Apartment 1G New York, NY USA
Subject:
TRIAL 4


Environmental notes: Morning, kitchen is well lit (natural light); small fan; open window; slightly warm room temperature


Three quinces raw weight: almost 2lbs (1lb ¾ oz)


Sliced quince halves lengthwise as opposed to in fifths and sixths widthwise. Put cut quinces to soak in wooden bowl filled with water.


For “Madeira syrup,” we are reversing original measurements to use less wine such that we will be using ¾ cups port and will add 2 cups sugar - going to get it boiling and then simmer it down. At 11:01AM, the port/sugar mixture is rather brown in color but still purply and definitely syrup-like in consistency. At 11:09AM skimming off surface residue on syrup; 11:19AM removing sugar from heat and at 11:44AM scraping off bits are crystallized sugar (is this pink sugar?)


10:59AM: Putting quince into cast iron vessel with boiling water; adding some of soaking water to recoup possible pectin content; effort to use less water though overall such that quinces are just covered by water. At 11:04AM skins turned brown, unlike previous trials. At 12:12PM crumbling, taking off heat; have been scraping “foam” off top.


Straining through different cloth (yellow) from previous three trials at 12:13PM.


Decoction weighs 10 oz and so requires 2 ½ oz of sugar.


Poured port/sugar mixture into decoction over medium heat at 12:24PM. Reduced at 12:51PM, reducing heat to low. Took mixture off heat at 1:11PM. Transferred mixture to glass container - removed some bubbles very easily from surface. Mixture is close to ruby in color and satisfactorily transparent however not jelly-like in consistency, is still more liquid than solid with the viscosity of a syrup. Covering container to prevent contamination. Storing final product under table to achieve coldest temperature without refrigerating.


MAJOR CHANGES IN TRIAL 4:
  1. Cut quinces lengthwise
  2. Added soaking water to boiling water
  3. Adjusted proportions of wine to sugar for syrup


RUNNING THOUGHTS:


No concept of total yield from outset or in recipe


Alchemical process of taking the essence - we do not know what the Madeira sugar refers to but removed solid from the syrup - then combining two essences


Is our low heat even too hot for “low heat” called for in recipe? How do we interpret these levels of heat given the jets of our modern stove compared to the degrading heat/ necessity to constantly add material to maintain steady (if not always variable) heat level?


What would they have been reducing the mixture in? Iron? Does the kind of vessel have any effect on the level of heat?


We are working from an English translation of a French recipe which itself may be a translation of another recipe - how reliable is translation in the reconstructing/ repeatability of recipes?


Warning not to “trim” quinces in chopping – does this mean do not remove top and bottom, including flower? Does this relate to texture or aroma?


In modern recipes, we start with measurements needed (ex. number of quints etc.), total preparation time, and expected yield a priori versus original recipe which discusses weight after first several steps.
Auspicious life giving blood like substance – can be offered to the king, given to the sick and eaten by the healthy – oriental red, color of ruby, potentially nurturing, helpful, auspicious food, as a colorant could be deceptive; that this is supposed to change color could contribute to magical/ auspicious qualities of product; transparency of final product – playing with hard soft etc.
Emphasis on color and presentation throughout recipe - using color as our point of referent - aiming for ruby color and transparency more than jelly consistency.


Vocabulary used to describe process/ experience is inherently comparative – makes experience so relative and understandably difficult to replicate.


This is an exercise in color making - how to achieve ruby?
Other primary sources consulted:
Of Quinces.

The best way to Preserve Quinces.
FIrst pare and coare the Quinces, and boyle them in faire water till they be very tender, not covering them, then taking them out of the water, take to every pound of them, two pound of Su|gar, and half a pint of water, boyle it to a Syrupe, scumming it well, then put in some of the Jelly that is washed from theQuince ker|nels, and after that, making it boyle a little, put in your Quinces, boyle them very fast, keeping the holes upward as neer as you can, for fear of breaking, and when they are so tender that you may thrust a rush through them, take them off, and put them up in your glasses, having first saved some Syrupe till it be cold to fill up your glasses.


A speciall Remembrance in doing them.
When you Preserve Quinces, or make Marmalade, take the Ker|nels out of the raw Quinces, and wash off the Jelly that groweth about them, in faire water, then straine the water and Jelly from the kernels, through some fine Cobweb laune, and put the same into the Marmalade, or preserved Quinces, when they are well scum'd, but put not so much into your Quinces, as into the Mar|malade, for it will Jelly the Syrupe too much; put six or seven spoonfulls of Syrupe into the Jelly. Before you put it into the Marmalade, you must boyle your Quinces more for Marmalade, then to preserve your Quinces, and least of them when you make your clear Cakes.
When you would preserve your Quinces white, you must not cover them in the boyling, and you must put halfe as much Sugar more for the white, as for the other. When you would have them red, you must cover them in the boyling.


To Pickle Quinces.
Boyle your Quinces that you intend to keep, whole and unpared,
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[Figure: [Figure: quinces attached to a branch; examples of letter Q in Roman, Syriac, Arabic, Hebrew, and an unidentified alphabet]
Quince
] in faire water, till they be soft, but not too violently for feare you break them, when they are soft take them out, and boyle some Quinces pared, quarter'd, and coar'd, and the parings of the Quin|ces with them in the same liquor, to make it strong, and when they have boyled a good time, enough to make the liquor of sufficient strength, take out the quartered Quinces and parings, and put the liquor into a pot big enough to receive all the Quin|ces, both whole and quartered, and put them into it, when the liquor is thorow cold, and so keep them for your use close covered.

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To make Quince Cakes.
Prepare your Quinces, and take the just weight of them in Su|gar, beaten finely and searcing halfe of it, then of the rest make a Syrupe, using the ordinary proportion of a pint of water to a pound of Sugar, let your Quinces be well beaten, and when the Syrupe is cand height, put in yourQuince, and boyle it to a past, keeping it with continuall stirring, then work it up with the bea|ten Sugar which you reserved, and these Cakes will tast well of the Quinces.


To make Printed Quidony of Quinces.
Take two pound of Quinces, paired, coared, and cut in small pieces, and put them into a faire posnet, with a quart of saire wa|ter, and when they are boyled tender, put into them one pound of Sugar clarified, with halfe a pint of faire water, let them boyle till all the fruit fall to the bottom of the posnet, then let the li|quid substance run through a faire linnen cloath into a clean bason, then put it into a posnet, and let it boyle till it come to a jelly, then Print it in your Moulds, and turne it into your boxes. You shall know when it is ready to Print, by rouling it on the back of a Spoone.

For your Pottage you may take in the Summer.
Parsly, Lettice, Sorrell, Endive, Succorie, Sperage, Hop|buds, Burnet, Burrage, Buglosse, Thime, Mints, Hysop, but in Winter, Balm, Bittanie, Thime, Marigold, Hysop, Majoram, Mints and Rue are good. For your Sallets take Pimpernell, Purslane, Mints, Sorrell, Hore-hound, Yong cole, Hop-buds, Sperage, Thime, Tops of Fennell, Tarregon, Lettice, and Wa|ter-cresses are good.
Capers are greatly commended being preserved in Vinegar, and eaten with a little oyle and vinegar, and so are Olives very good also.
For your sauce, the juyce of a Limon, Citron, or Orange is best, the juyce of Sorrell and Vinegar is also good.
All raw fruits are to be refused, except those which tend to sour tast, as Pomgranates, damask Prunes, Pippins, red and sour Cherries, and Wallnuts, Quinces, and Peares preserved are very good eaten after meals.
All kind of Pulse is to be refused, as Beans, Pease, and such like, because they increase winde, and make raw humours and ill juyce in the bodie.
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Refrain from Garlick, Onyons, Leeks, Pepper, Mustard, and Rocket, because they doe over-heat the body, make adustion of the bloud, and cause fumes to ascend into the head.
Cheese is not good, because it doth ingender grosse and thick humors. Milk is also to be refused, because it doth quick|ly corrupt in the stomack.
[...]
The Cure of the Bloudie Flux.
There is more possibility of cure, by how much more expe|dition the medicine is ministred: and detracting it, the Pa|tients often die suddenly, without feeling much grief. For speedy and assured remedie, the Patients bodie must be clean|sed of the sliminess, ingendred in the passages of the nutri|ments, before any sustenance can remain in his bodie. To that purpose purge him in the morning, with halfe a pint of white wine cold, wherein half an ounce of Rubard being smal
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cut hath been sodden, putting some Sugar Candie to it, to sweeten it, and immediatly after he hath so purged, keep at his navell Rosemary sod in strong Vinegar, applyed in the mor|ning and evening very hot, untill it be stayed; giving him often Quinces bruised, and rouled in Marmalade like Pills, which he should swallow whole, and none of the fruits or meats before recited, nor any more white wine, but red wine of any sort: And if it be one the land use the Livers of Goats, (especially) Sheeps, or Bullocks rosted; not willingly permit|ting the Patient to eat any other meat: And if at Sea, Rice onely sodden in water, rather then any thing else usuall there, untill the infirmitie bee perfectly asswaged.

[...]
For obstructions of Liver and Spleen.
Rx. Flowers of Burrage, Buglosse, Marigolds, Violets, En|dive, of each a handfull, Dates stoned three ounces, of the best blew Currans two ounces, sweet Fennell-seed half an ounce, Graines and Coriander, of each one drachm, whole brown Watercresses nine leaves, Hysop stripped downwards nine little branches, of french Barly three ounces; boyl all these together in a pottle of spring water till a third part be consu|med, then strain it, and when it is strained adde of the con|serve of Barberries three ounces, Sirrup of Lemons and of Quinces, of each three ounces, this is to be taken morning and evening, nine spoonfuls at a time.
The Flowers are to be had at the Apothecaries, dry all the year.

In The Prophetic Medicine by Ibn Al-Qayyim (1292-1350), quince is called Safarjal; text describes quince and its uses medicinally and otherwise



Re-Written Modern Recipe:

Ingredients:
-3 ripe quinces
-2 cups brown sugar
-3/4 cup port wine


Utensils:
-2 large bowls (to soak chopped quince; to collect decoction)
-1 large pot (to boil quince)
-1 small pot (to make sugar syrup)
-1 wooden spoon
-1 cheesecloth or jelly bag
-1 strainer



Total time: 2.5 hours


Halve three quinces; cut each half into five or six slices lengthwise without removing either end to preserve the flower. Remove and discard of all seeds. Keep sliced quinces in water to prevent browning. Boil quinces in enough water such that fruit is covered. When quinces have thoroughly softened, after approximately 1 to 1.5 hrs, strain fruit through a layered cheesecloth or jelly bag with a ready bowl underneath to collect decoction (boiled water). To make syrup, boil mixture of ¾ cup port wine and 2 cups brown sugar on medium to high heat, then reduce at low heat. Stir syrup reduction into decoction over medium heat. When mixture has reduced, lower to low heat to avoid scorching. When nearly cooked, put a little on a dish using a spoon to test whether mixture holds its shape and consistency. If finished, remove mixture from heat and store in glass container.