Overview of process (notes from Life casting procedure PHS ppt)
Watch this video: http://player.vimeo.com/video/135551089
Plants and Flowers (one-piece molds)
Washington, DC molding and Williamsburg burnout and casting
See these pages in ms (not the latest trans): https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B33U03wERu0edXNkUl85RmtEOHc
Crayfish (two-piece molds)
Mold side 1:
Roll out flat clay base
Pose specimen
Add wax sprue and gate system and air vents
Add notches with clay for later registration of 2 sides of mold
Build up clay wall around the base, taller than specimen. Make sure base and walls are joined securely, with no leaks
Pour in plaster mix over the specimen and wax
Let the plaster set
Mold side 2:
When the plaster has set, take off clay walls
Turn the mold upside down so that clay base is on top
Remove clay base to expose the specimen and wax
Build up clay walls to create the second side
Pour in plaster
Let the plaster set
When the plaster has set, take off clay walls and base as before
Burnout of specimen
Bind the two sides of the mold together with wire
In kiln, burn out the specimen
Cool
Open the mold
Blow out the ashes
Metal pour
Put two mold halves together and wire together (best with clamp system, but can also be done with metal sheets+wire or just wire)
Paint plaster on the join line of the two halves
Heat the molds in the kiln
Cool to ca 120 C
Melt metal in crucibles using blowtorches
Pour metal into mold
Cast removal
Immerse in cold water
OR
Break mold with hammer/mallet, then immerse in cold water
Finishing
Using snips, remove sprues and flashing
Other
To cast plants in one piece molds, use thread/string to keep it upright
If casting insect wings, flower petals, etc., paint underside with butter
Or also wheat oil? Brandy?
Shortcut: instead of building up container for the mold with clay, use ready-made containers (such as disposable cups or bowls)
(Slide 85) - very strong mold with no cracks and air vents held up well
Beetle cast
2x plaster
1x tile
1/4 iron oxide PART NOT TABLESPOON
NJR questions
Where are the points in the overall procedure where we need to have two separate processes prepped to come together? Or that are dependent on each other? For example:
Plaster mix prepped with specimen+wax system ready
Kiln heat and mold prep
Mold prep/heat and metal melting
When is butter, wheat oil, and brandy employed and for what
How to determine wax sprue/gate system
Recipe for homemade wax sprues? We can prep in advance of day
Recipe for plaster mix
From PHS notes, it seems that Fr. 640 "full amount" was the best
From 2011 - (pg 6) Full iron oxide mix - casting in silver
2 parts plaster
1 part ground tile
1/2 part iron oxide
1 egg
1 tbs sal ammoniac
~200ml water
How long does setting of plaster typically take?
Burnout - how much prep of the kiln is necessary? How long does the kiln run? Cooling? --> for overall timing of the two days
Kiln temp and times
Metal pouring
How much prep is necessary
What does workstation look like
Do we need wax melter pens?
We have some in the drawers in the lab, but I have no idea if they still work
Field note links
Copied from 2018 Toulouse Exhibition plans, notes on July 26, 2017
M&K team to try after Aug 22 - possible last week before school starts (week of 8/28) or first week of classes because G8906 doesn't meet (week of 9/4)
If this proves to be a disaster, we can try again or reach out to Andrew Lacey for help
He is based in UK
Would require a fee
(could help save time)
Want Lan to document the process so we can have a really good record and "field notes" of the process (the object from start to finish at every single step) - like M&K stock media
Can we write an article from this day? Journal of Visual Evidence?
Another idea: Ask Feiner's group to see if they have any interest in a project based around this
Use tin-lead mix
Possibilities to do
Beetle
Lizard
Crayfish
Rosemary
Butterfly
Leaf - ivy
Rose
FINAL list to try, with where to source them
Ivy leaf - PHS - park
Rosemary - NJR - from plant at home - Field notes Gans
Butterfly - NJR - AMNH store - Field notes Shiye
Beetle - Field notes Shiye
Possibilities of existing objects to send
Jenny's flower
Beetle (x2)
PHS wheat
PHS plant
Giulia and Jef's rose
Repair work
PHS wheat stem
M+K beetle
NJR Notes from PHS casting notes
NJR: pull out the recipes we may follow from PHS notes
PHS: overview of process
2011 Rijksmuseum - "EXPERIMENT: JANUARY 10-18, 2011 AMSTERDAM ATELIERGEBOUW"
(pg 1) What we learned this time
Very little cracking, perhaps because of:
Putting wet molds in kiln
Chicken wire
Ground tile in mold
Smaller molds generally
Thick plaster better than thin for sturdy molds
Thin part of mixture poured in first created terrific impression
"Luting" around joins after wiring and before heating for metal pour is effective
Full amount of iron oxide following ms made extremely hard molds that were not friable dry but came out pretty well if dropped into cold water after ~10min
(pg 6) Full iron oxide mix - casting in silver
2 parts plaster
1 part ground tile
1/2 part iron oxide
1 egg
1 tbs sal ammoniac
~200ml water
(pg 7) Methods
Getting wax out
Wax steamed out in steamer for ~1.5hrs at 80, and up to 85
Burnout
up to 100 in 3hrs
at 100 for 3hrs
up to 200 in 3hrs
at 200 for 11.75hrs
up to 350 in 3hrs
at 350 for 3hrs
up to 500 in 3hrs
at 500 for 28 hrs
cooled for 35hrs
Cleanout
Notes about coming in on monday morning to find beetles completely fine ash
Thicker plaster better than thin
Notes I presume on the next steps of the process, but not labeled as such
Wired them up, put plaster mix around joins
In kiln: heated up to 450 over 4 hours. At 450 for ~1hr
All poured within 1 hr with no cracks or disasters
Casting Expts - "EXPERIMENT 23 June 2009 - 16 July 2009 - AMSTERDAM ATELIERGEBOUW" -- FROM PHS, NOT RELEVANT
PLANS FOR 9/21/17-9/22/17
NJR+THU to arrive early on thursday to prep for photos
ROSEMARY
Try one surrounded by wax
And a second not surrounded by wax (ms method)
Ivy leaf - PHS - park
Rosemary - NJR - from plant at home - Field notes Gans
Butterfly - NJR - AMNH store - Field notes Shiye
Beetle - Field notes Shiye
Need to determine alloy appropriate for each
I think we can go with either of these:
2 oz lead in 16 oz tin, or 1/4 part lead to tin (by weight)
<id>p110v_3</id>
<head>A cast of <m>lead</m> or <m>tin</m></head>
<ab>Because you want to cast <m>tin</m> very thinly, if your medal, plant or other thing <sup>you want</sup> to mold is thin & fine, make <sup>sure</sup> to include more <m>tin</m>, much more than <m>lead</m>, namely less than the fourth part of <m>lead</m> for three of <m>tin</m>. And moreover, one only puts <m>lead</m> in as an alloy. Contrarily, if you want to mold something strong & thick, put [h]a lot more <m>lead</m> in than <m>tin</m>. And for the one & the other you can put in a little <m>looking-glass tin</m>, but only a very little, with a little <m>resin</m>, when you want to cast. Since then, when molding with pure new <m>lead</m>, I put in two ounces of pure <m>tin</m> for every pound <sup>of <m>lead</m></sup>. And when molding with pure <m>tin</m>, I put in two ounces of pure <m>lead</m> for every pound <sup>of <m>tin</m></sup>. I made some plants & snakes as if they were real.[i]</ab>